On our last night in Georgia we hiked to Lagodekhi Natural Reserve (whose “sister park” is Grand Teton-a favorite of mine). As we passed through town a woman offered us a room at her guesthouse. She was the sweetest lady, and she reminded Olga of her Ukranian grandmother. The home was simple and straightforward, and her front yard was full of fig trees and heavy, ripe grape vines. We worked up an appetite hiking and came home to the most delicious dinner in this kitchen-meat cutlets, fried potatoes, tomato and cucumber salad, bread, fresh cheese, grapes, watermelon, and homemade wine. We asked her to eat with us, but she apologized and excused herself to watch her favorite soap on TV. We showered and slept, preparing to cross the border into Azerbaijan the next day.